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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.